Fencing
Fence installation cost
Fence runs about $43 a linear foot installed, split near enough half material and half labour. This counts posts, rails, pickets, gates and bags of concrete — with the hole depth set by your frost line rather than by a rule of thumb.
Written and edited by Pablo Ruiz Quintero
Last reviewed 2026-09-16 · Nothing you type leaves your browser
What are you fencing?
The default American back yard fence. Cheap, private, and it will need a board replacing every few years.
Posts go 8 ft apart for this type.
Fence run
Measure along the ground, corner to corner.
A yard fenced on three sides is three runs. Where two meet, that is a corner.
Where two runs meet. A corner post takes tension both ways.
Where a run stops — at the house, a wall, or nothing.
Gates
Not a per-foot item. Each one needs two heavier posts, hardware and adjusting.
- Walk gate (3–4 ft)≈ $310 each1
- Double drive gate (10–12 ft)≈ $1,100 each0
Leave blank unless your building department specifies a depth. Theirs wins over ours.
Taking one out is charged per foot and it is slow work.
Used only to pick a regional labour rate. It stays in your browser.
Post holes
30 in deep
120 ft · 6 ft high · 20 posts at 8 ft centres · 9 ft posts
Frost is setting this depth, not the one-third rule
Frost reaches about 24 in here, and the hole has to bottom out below it — 24 + 6 in of clearance beats the 24 in that a 6 ft fence would otherwise need. A post founded above the frost line is lifted a little every winter until the fence leans.
Shopping list
- Posts, 4×4 × 9 ft
14 line · 2 corner · 2 end · 2 gate20 posts - Rails
3 per section across 15 sections45 rails - Pickets
5.5 in wide, butted tight262 pickets - Concrete, 80 lb bags
1.15 ft³ per hole — a 10 in hole 30 in deep, less the post39 bags - Walk gate (3–4 ft)
Needs heavier posts than a fence run, because a gate is a lever that hangs off one of them.1 · $310
What it costs
National average. Material, concrete, gates and installed labour.
$42.60 per linear foot installed. Material is $2,280 of it and labour $2,280 — fencing is one of the trades where doing it yourself saves the larger half.
Worth knowing
- Frost, not the one-third rule, is setting the depth here: 24 in of frost plus 6 in of clearance beats the 24 in that a 6 ft fence would otherwise need. A post founded above the frost line gets lifted every winter until the fence leans, and there is no fixing that without digging the concrete out.
- A six foot privacy fence is a sail. In an exposed position, shorten the post spacing or go one post size up — wind load, not rot, is what takes down most tall wood fences.
On this page — 11 sections
- 01Reading the result
- 02Post depth: the only part you cannot fix later
- 03Spacing, and the short panel at the end
- 04Concrete, and how much a hole really takes
- 05Vinyl against wood, and what fence installation costs per linear foot
- 06Vinyl against wood, year by year
- 07Gates are a separate job
- 08Four things to settle before the first hole
- 09Five ways this goes wrong
- 10How the calculator works it out
- 11The words on a fencing quote
Reading the result
The short version
- The headline is post hole depth, because it is the only part of a fence you cannot correct afterwards.
- Depth is the deeper of two rules — a third of the post, or below the frost line. In cold states, frost wins comfortably.
- Gates are not a per-foot item. Each needs two heavier posts, hardware and adjustment, and they are where quotes and estimates diverge.
- Labour is half the bill or more on every fence type. This is the trade where doing it yourself saves the most.
Most fence calculators lead with pickets. This one leads with the hole, because everything else on the list can be swapped, repainted or replaced a board at a time — and a post set too shallow can only be fixed by breaking out the concrete and starting again.
Underneath the depth is the working: the total run, the post count broken into line, corner, end and gate posts, and the post length you actually have to buy, which is the fence height plus whatever goes in the ground.
post depth = max( height × 12 ÷ 3 , frost depth + 6 in )
- height × 12 ÷ 3
- the one-third rule, in inches — a stability rule about leverage
- frost depth
- how deep the ground freezes where you are
- + 6 in
- clearance so the bottom of the hole is properly below it
Worked through — A 6 ft fence needs 24 in on the one-third rule. In Florida that is the answer. In Minnesota, where frost reaches 60 in, the hole has to be 66 — nearly three times as deep, and the post goes from 8 ft to 12.
Post depth: the only part you cannot fix later
Two rules govern how deep a fence post goes, and almost everything written about fencing mentions only the first.
The one-third rule is about leverage. A fence is a long lever with the wind pushing on it, and burying a third of the post gives it enough purchase in the soil to resist being pushed over. That is where “a six-foot fence needs an eight-foot post” comes from.
The frost line is about something else entirely. Water in the soil freezes and expands, and it lifts whatever is founded above it. Not evenly — one post rises more than its neighbour, and the fence between them goes out of true. The next winter it happens again. Within a few years a perfectly built fence is visibly leaning and nothing about the carpentry was wrong.
So the depth is the greater of the two, plus clearance so that the bottom of the hole sits properly beneath the freeze. In the south the one-third rule wins and posts are short. In the north frost wins by a wide margin, and it changes the post you have to buy as well as the hole you have to dig.
0 in
Florida
No meaningful frost — the rule is leverage
18 in
Virginia
Still under the one-third rule for a 6 ft fence
48 in
New York
Frost takes over — 54 in of hole
60 in
Minnesota
66 in, and a 12 ft post
Spacing, and the short panel at the end
Posts go six to eight feet apart for wood and vinyl, and up to ten for chain link. Closer is stronger and costs more posts; wider sags, especially in wood, where an unsupported rail will bow within a couple of seasons.
The problem nobody warns about is what happens at the end of a run. Divide 47 feet by 8 and you get five full panels and a seven-foot remainder — fine. Divide 42 by 8 and you get five panels and a two-foot stub, which looks exactly like what it is: a mistake.
The fix is not to add a panel. It is to spread the spacing evenly across the whole run: six bays of seven feet instead of five of eight and one of two. Posts a few inches closer together are invisible, and one short panel is the first thing anyone notices.
Concrete, and how much a hole really takes
A post hole takes more concrete than people expect, because it is a cylinder and volume grows with the square of the diameter. A ten-inch hole three feet deep is about 1.6 cubic feet before you subtract the post — close to three 60 lb bags, or about a bag and a half of the 80 lb size.
Multiply that by twenty posts and the concrete alone is a pallet. It is also why frost depth moves the budget twice: deeper holes are more digging and considerably more concrete.
| Set in concrete | Set in compacted gravel | |
|---|---|---|
| Strength | Higher — the standard, and essential for gate posts | Adequate for line posts in firm ground |
| Drainage | Water can sit against the post at the top | Drains freely all round |
| Rot | Slower if the top is crowned to shed water | Slower in wet ground, because nothing holds water |
| Replacing a post | Break out the concrete, or dig the lot | Pull the post, reuse the hole |
| Frost | A smooth collar can still be gripped and lifted | Less to grip, but the depth rule is the same |
The argument between them is real and neither side is silly. What is not negotiable is the depth: gravel set below the frost line outperforms concrete set above it, every time.
One detail worth doing either way — crown the top of the concrete so it sheds water away from the post rather than forming a collar that holds it. That single trowel movement adds years to a wooden post.
Mixing the post concrete from bags? The concrete calculator works out bags against yards and tells you where ordering ready-mix starts to make sense.
Concrete calculatorVinyl against wood, and what fence installation costs per linear foot
Three quarters of everything people search about fencing is price, so here is the shape of it — and the shape is that labour dominates.
Wood privacy — pressure treated
The default American back yard fence. Cheap, private, and it will need a board replacing every few years.
$19/ft material · $19/ft to install · 8 ft post spacing · 12–20 years
Wood privacy — cedar
Naturally rot resistant and it silvers rather than rotting. Worth the premium on the pickets; use treated posts regardless.
$32/ft material · $19/ft to install · 8 ft post spacing · 20–30 years
Wood picket — spaced
Front-yard fencing. The gap is the point — it marks a boundary without walling anything off.
$16/ft material · $16/ft to install · 8 ft post spacing · 12–20 years
Vinyl
Panels rather than boards, so nothing to paint and nothing to replace. It goes brittle in extreme cold and it shows dirt.
$34/ft material · $19/ft to install · 8 ft post spacing · 25–40 years
Chain link
The cheapest way to enclose a large area, and the one the search volume in this category is really about.
$12/ft material · $13/ft to install · 10 ft post spacing · 20–30 years
Aluminium / ornamental
Pool-code fencing and front boundaries. It never rots, never rusts and never hides anything.
$45/ft material · $22/ft to install · 6 ft post spacing · 40+ years
Chain link is what the search volume in this category is really about, and it is the cheapest way to enclose a large area by a wide margin. Wood privacy is the default back yard and the one that needs maintaining. Vinyl costs half as much again up front and then asks for nothing. Aluminium is what pool codes and front boundaries get, and it outlasts the house.
Vinyl against wood, year by year
The comparison almost everybody is actually making. Up front vinyl is dearer; divided by the years it lasts, it is not — and that is before the staining, which is the cost nobody puts in the sum because almost nobody keeps it up.
| Fence | Installed / ft | Lifespan | 100 ft per year |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chain link | $25 | 20–30 | $100 |
| Vinyl | $53 | 25–40 | $163 |
| Aluminium / ornamental | $67 | 40+ | $168 |
| Wood picket — spaced | $32 | 12–20 | $200 |
| Wood privacy — cedar | $51 | 20–30 | $204 |
| Wood privacy — pressure treated | $38 | 12–20 | $238 |
Installed cost of 100 ft divided by the midpoint of the lifespan. Maintenance is not in it, which is where wood loses further ground.
| Wood privacy, treated | Vinyl | |
|---|---|---|
| Up front | Cheaper | About 39 per cent more |
| Per year owned | Dearer | About a third less |
| Maintenance | Stain every 2–3 years, boards to replace | Wash it |
| Colour | Any, repeatedly | The one it came in, forever |
| Repair | One board, an afternoon, and it will not match | A whole panel, and it will match |
| Cold | Fine | Goes brittle — a football cracks a panel |
| Looks | Like a fence | Like a product, close up |
The honest case for wood is not economics, and pretending otherwise is how people end up disappointed. It is that wood can be any colour, can be repaired a board at a time, and does not read as plastic from three feet away.
And if the job is enclosing ground rather than screening it, neither is the answer — chain link is less than half of either and outlives treated wood.
Gates are a separate job
Every per-foot price you will be quoted is for fence, not for gates, and the difference is not small. A gate is a lever hanging off a single post, swinging several times a day for twenty years.
That means heavier posts — a six-by-six where the fence uses four-by-fours — set deeper than the run, often with a diagonal brace or a tension cable in the leaf itself. It means hinges and a latch chosen to carry the weight rather than to match the price. And it means time spent hanging and adjusting so it still closes when the ground moves next spring.
| Gate | Typical installed | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Walk gate (3–4 ft) | $180–$560 | Needs heavier posts than a fence run, because a gate is a lever that hangs off one of them. |
| Double drive gate (10–12 ft) | $620–$2,200 | Two leaves, a drop rod and posts set deeper than the rest of the fence. The most common place a fence sags. |
Four things to settle before the first hole
Fences are the most disputed structure in residential building, and almost all of it comes from four questions that are cheap to answer beforehand and expensive afterwards.
Where is the line? From a survey — not from the old fence, the kerb, or where the grass changes. Fences built on assumption are the most common boundary dispute there is, and the remedy is to move them. If the pins cannot be found, a surveyor costs a fraction of relocating finished work.
What is buried there? Call the national dig line before any post hole. It is free, it is legally required in most places, and gas, power and fibre all run through yards at depths that a post hole reaches easily.
What do the rules allow? Height limits differ between front and back yards, setbacks are not always zero, and some jurisdictions specify which side the finished face must show. A homeowners’ association can add materials and colours on top of all that.
Have you told the neighbour? Not a legal requirement in most places, and the single best investment in the project. A fence on a shared line affects two houses, and the conversation is free before the posts go in and costly afterwards.
Before the first hole
- Survey checked or pins located — not assumed from the existing fence.
- Utilities marked. Call before you dig; it is free and usually mandatory.
- Height, setback and finished-face rules confirmed with the local authority.
- Any homeowners' association approval in writing.
- Neighbour spoken to, especially on a shared boundary.
- Frost depth confirmed with the building department, not just estimated.
Five ways this goes wrong
01Using the one-third rule in frost country
It is a stability rule, not a frost rule. A 24 inch hole is fine for leverage on a six-foot fence and useless where the ground freezes to 48 — the posts get lifted a little every winter until the fence leans.
Instead — Take the deeper of the two figures, and confirm the frost depth with your building department rather than a chart.
02Measuring eight feet at a time from one end
The remainder lands at the far end as a stub panel, and on sloping ground the error accumulates as you go.
Instead — Set the corners, string the line, and divide the total into equal bays. Six bays of seven feet beats five of eight and one of two.
03Treating gates as fence footage
A gate needs two heavier posts, hardware and hanging time. Quoting it by the foot is how a fence estimate comes in hundreds of dollars light per opening.
Instead — Count gates separately, and make them wider than you think you need.
04Building to the old fence line
The old fence may well have been in the wrong place, and rebuilding on it inherits the error — along with any claim that has been quietly accruing.
Instead — Find the survey pins. It is the cheapest hour of the project.
05Under-ordering concrete
A post hole is a cylinder, and volume grows with the square of the diameter. A ten-inch hole three feet deep is about a bag and a half, and twenty of them is most of a pallet.
Instead — Work it out per hole and multiply. The calculator subtracts the post, which most rules of thumb forget.
How the calculator works it out
- 01Measure the runsAlong the ground, corner to corner. A yard fenced on three sides is three runs, not one long one.
- 02Count corners, ends and gatesEach corner and each end needs its own post, and each gate needs two — heavier ones than the rest of the fence.
- 03Work out the post depthThe deeper of two figures: a third of the post length, or the frost line plus six inches of clearance. In cold country, frost wins.
- 04Divide the runs into sectionsSix to ten feet between posts depending on the fence type. Spread the spacing evenly rather than leaving a short panel at the end.
- 05Count rails and picketsTwo or three rails per section, and pickets by their width plus any gap — not by the fence length alone.
- 06Work out the concreteEach hole is its volume minus the post. A ten-inch hole three feet deep takes about a bag and a half.
Post depth takes the greater of the one-third rule and the frost line plus 6 inches of clearance, and the panel says which of the two is driving it — because that is the interesting part. Frost depths are compiled design figures by state, given at the deeper end where a state spans a range, and the requirement that anything load-bearing be founded below the frost line comes from the model residential code. Prices split material from labour, since fencing is the trade where the split matters most. Everything is on the sources page, dated.
One assumption worth stating: runs do not share posts with each other. Where two runs meet you tell the calculator it is a corner, and it counts one post there rather than two — which is why the corner and end fields matter more than they look.
Nothing you type is sent anywhere — the whole calculation runs in your browser.
The words on a fencing quote
Line, corner and end posts are not interchangeable, and frost heave is the word for what happens when the depth is wrong.
- Line post
- An ordinary post in the middle of a run. It only carries the fence either side of it, which is why it can be lighter than the posts at the ends.
- Corner and end post
- Posts where a run turns or stops. They take tension from one or two directions instead of balancing it, so they are set deeper or braced, and on chain link they are a heavier section entirely.
- Frost line
- The depth to which the ground freezes in a normal winter where you are. Anything founded above it gets lifted by frost heave and settles crooked, a little more each year.
- Frost heave
- Water in the soil freezing, expanding and pushing everything above it upwards. It does not push evenly, which is why a fence set too shallow does not rise — it leans.
- One-third rule
- The trade rule that a third of a post's total length goes in the ground. It is a stability rule about leverage, and it is the minimum — the frost line can demand more.
- Rail
- The horizontal member between posts that the pickets fix to. Two for a low fence, three for a six-foot privacy fence, because the middle of a tall picket needs support.
- Picket
- The vertical board. Butted tight for privacy, spaced for a picket fence — and the spacing is what decides how many you need, not the fence length alone.
- Setback
- How far from the boundary a fence must sit under local rules. It varies by jurisdiction and it is not always zero, which is one of the two reasons fences get moved after they are built.
Common questions
- How deep should fence posts be?
- The deeper of two numbers: a third of the post's total length, or your frost line plus about six inches of clearance. A six-foot fence needs 24 inches on the one-third rule — but in a state where frost reaches 48 inches, the hole has to be 54, and that is the number that matters.
- How much does it cost to install a fence?
- Chain link is the cheapest at roughly $25 per linear foot installed, wood privacy around $38, vinyl near $53 and aluminium higher again. Labour is half the bill or more in every case, which is why fencing is the trade where doing it yourself saves the most.
- How far apart should fence posts be?
- Six to eight feet for wood and vinyl, up to ten for chain link. Closer spacing is stronger and costs more posts, and in an exposed position a six-foot privacy fence is worth bringing in from eight to six — wind load, not rot, is what takes most tall fences down.
- How many bags of concrete per fence post?
- About one and a half 80 lb bags for a ten-inch hole three feet deep, once you subtract the post itself. Deeper holes in frost country push that towards two or three, which is why frost depth moves the concrete order as much as it moves the digging.
- How many pickets do I need?
- Divide the fence length in inches by the picket width plus the gap. A 120-foot privacy fence in 5½ inch boards butted tight is about 262 pickets; the same run as a spaced picket fence with 3½ inch boards and a 2½ inch gap needs about 240.
- Should fence posts be set in concrete or gravel?
- Concrete is standard and stronger, and it is what a gate post should always have. Compacted gravel drains better around the post and makes replacement far easier, which is why some installers prefer it for line posts in wet ground. What matters more than the choice is that the hole bottoms out below the frost line either way.
- What size posts do I need for a 6 foot fence?
- Four-by-four is standard for wood, with the post long enough to bury a third — so a six-foot fence takes an eight-foot post. Go to a six-by-six for gate posts and anywhere exposed to wind, because a tall privacy fence is effectively a sail bolted to a lever.
- Do I need a permit to build a fence?
- Often yes, and almost always there are rules even where a permit is not required — maximum heights that differ between front and back yards, setbacks from the boundary, and restrictions on which side the finished face must show. Add a homeowners' association and the rules multiply.
- How do I know where my property line is?
- From a survey, not from the old fence, the kerb or where the grass changes. Fences built on assumption are the most common boundary dispute there is, and the remedy is usually to move it. If the survey pins cannot be found, a surveyor costs a fraction of relocating a finished fence.
- Why is my fence leaning after a few winters?
- Almost always frost heave: the posts were not set below the frost line, so each winter lifts them slightly and unevenly. There is no fix short of digging out the concrete and resetting deeper, which is why post depth is worth more attention than any other decision in a fence.
- How much does a gate add to a fence?
- A walk gate is roughly $180 to $560 installed and a double drive gate anywhere from $620 to $2,200 — and neither is a per-foot item. Each needs two posts heavier than the fence run, hardware, and adjusting so it still closes in a year's time.
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About the author
Pablo Ruiz Quintero — Editor
Editor of MaterialsEstimator. Decides which documents count as a source, what every default value is, and where the line sits between what the reader parses and what the engines compute.
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